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Avro Canada CF-105 Arrow Skin WIP


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MARS_REVENANT #1 Posted 21 February 2017 - 04:10 AM

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With all the great skins coming out from hawkeyededic and Foxtrot1 (Peter205), I thought I would give it a try, it is something I have always wanted to do, but never got around to it.  This is the start as I have never tried it before, but this will not be a historically accurate skin, just something fun to throw together.  An Avro Arrow skin applied to the Javelin.

 

I'll post some shots as I progress... any tips from the masters is greatly appreciated.

 

First shot is really just testing if it even works, and changing the hangar skin to the base white.  A lot of parts left to convert still.... but here is a snow-white Javelin.

 

This is what I'll be using as my guide.

 


Edited by MARS_REVENANT, 21 February 2017 - 04:13 AM.

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Peter205 #2 Posted 21 February 2017 - 11:16 AM

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Excellent work, mate!

Remember the connections between parts of the aircraft.

They sometimes may be tricky and hard to connect.

Also, try to make some Spit I or V skins first.

They're DDS files are easier to work on since they haven't much upgrades.

Keep up the great work.

 

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Foxtrox1. :honoring:



hawkeyededic #3 Posted 21 February 2017 - 02:07 PM

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You just took the hardest step imo, getting up enough nerve to try. If you have any questions feel free to ask, always happy to help.

 

The Javelin should be really easy to work with for a first skin as it has no upgrades at all.

 

 



 

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MARS_REVENANT #4 Posted 21 February 2017 - 04:59 PM

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View PostPeter205, on 21 February 2017 - 06:16 AM, said:

Excellent work, mate!

Remember the connections between parts of the aircraft.

They sometimes may be tricky and hard to connect.

Also, try to make some Spit I or V skins first.

They're DDS files are easier to work on since they haven't much upgrades.

Keep up the great work.

 

Best Regards,

Foxtrox1. :honoring:

 

View Posthawkeyededic, on 21 February 2017 - 09:07 AM, said:

You just took the hardest step imo, getting up enough nerve to try. If you have any questions feel free to ask, always happy to help.

 

The Javelin should be really easy to work with for a first skin as it has no upgrades at all.

 

 

 

Thanks fellaz.... I have some ideas.  I'm thinking total white out to all components, then adding some coloured components back in.  Was wondering, how to you get polished aluminum to work, and how would I get a gloss white rather than flat white?

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hawkeyededic #5 Posted 21 February 2017 - 08:45 PM

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View PostMARS_REVENANT, on 21 February 2017 - 10:59 AM, said:

 

 

Thanks fellaz.... I have some ideas.  I'm thinking total white out to all components, then adding some coloured components back in.  Was wondering, how to you get polished aluminum to work, and how would I get a gloss white rather than flat white?

 

What program you using to paint with? Knowing that will help us to guide you through the steps as it can be a little different for each program.

 

I started to write a series of guides a few years back for GIMP users, they are quite old and not completed but they should give you or anyone else for that matter a basis to start with in GIMP. The metal guide is the same technique I still use for bare metal.

 

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=8BDD90047E8D5705%211265&cid=8BDD90047E8D5705



 

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MARS_REVENANT #6 Posted 21 February 2017 - 10:58 PM

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Photoshop CS 6 design suite. Was thinking of using Adobe InDesign for the crisp line work lettering and logos.

 

Thanks for the link... I'll check it out.

 

 


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Bubba_Zanetti #7 Posted 21 February 2017 - 11:34 PM

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View PostMARS_REVENANT, on 21 February 2017 - 05:58 PM, said:

Was thinking of using Adobe InDesign for the crisp line work lettering and logos.

 

Ok, I know I've been out of the DTP loop for near more than a decade and a half, but what's a page layout program going to do for skin editing?  I miss those Quark XPress days...:(


MARS_REVENANT #8 Posted 21 February 2017 - 11:45 PM

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View PostBubba_Zanetti, on 21 February 2017 - 06:34 PM, said:

 

Ok, I know I've been out of the DTP loop for near more than a decade and a half, but what's a page layout program going to do for skin editing?  I miss those Quark XPress days...:(

 

I remember quark... I have used AdobeID to create logos for vector images... Not sure it applies in this case, but it had some pretty easy to use line work tools.  Photoshop may have them as well... Maybe I'm over thinking it.  My basic understanding was Photoshop for raster images, InDesign for vector graphics.

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Bubba_Zanetti #9 Posted 21 February 2017 - 11:47 PM

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View PostMARS_REVENANT, on 21 February 2017 - 06:45 PM, said:

 

I remember quark... I have used AdobeID to create logos for vector images... Not sure it applies in this case, but it had some pretty easy to use line work tools.  Photoshop may have them as well... Maybe I'm over thinking it.  My basic understanding was Photoshop for raster images, InDesign for vector graphics.

 

Illustrator was for vector, PS for bitmap, although over the years it's gained a lot of Vector tools.



MARS_REVENANT #10 Posted 22 February 2017 - 12:05 AM

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View PostBubba_Zanetti, on 21 February 2017 - 06:47 PM, said:

 

Illustrator was for vector, PS for bitmap, although over the years it's gained a lot of Vector tools.

 

Sorry, this whole time I meant Adobe Illustrator... not InDesign.... LOL woops

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MARS_REVENANT #11 Posted 22 February 2017 - 12:27 AM

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Ghost Plane complete... this was fairly basic.  All I did was create a dds file of just a white rectangle and it obviously captured all the parts.  This is pretty quick and easy for skinning if you want an all red, blue, or whatever colour plane.  Now comes the more complicated part of bringing in the individual parts with the colours and materials I want.

 

But still, a ghost plane looks pretty cool.

 

 


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hawkeyededic #12 Posted 22 February 2017 - 01:38 AM

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I'm not going ot be much help with the software your using, but I will try, some of my little tricks will work regardless.

 

To make locating all  the parts easier, resize your DDS to 4096 x 2048 and then paste a copy of the detail.dds as a new layer on top, that way you will be able to locate all the panel lines and parts easily, as well as the areas you don't need to paint. Doing so can make finding the fiddly bits a lot easier.

 

To get a gloss white finish try adjusting the opacity of the white layer to make it somewhat translucent, start with 90% and go from there, this will only work though if you have a "bare metal" layer under it.



 

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MARS_REVENANT #13 Posted 22 February 2017 - 02:24 AM

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View Posthawkeyededic, on 21 February 2017 - 08:38 PM, said:

I'm not going ot be much help with the software your using, but I will try, some of my little tricks will work regardless.

 

To make locating all  the parts easier, resize your DDS to 4096 x 2048 and then paste a copy of the detail.dds as a new layer on top, that way you will be able to locate all the panel lines and parts easily, as well as the areas you don't need to paint. Doing so can make finding the fiddly bits a lot easier.

 

To get a gloss white finish try adjusting the opacity of the white layer to make it somewhat translucent, start with 90% and go from there, this will only work though if you have a "bare metal" layer under it.

 

I have been going through your walkthroughs and come up with this so far.. raw aluminum look.

 

 

 

 

I was hoping to get a more polished look as you showed in your tutorial.  I changes the pink/purple details file to black and white, and reduced the opacity to 1% to get this look.  Leving it pink seemed to give me a polished alum with a pink hue.  I'm trying to get something to look like this: http://forum.worldof...170#entry471170 he seems to have got it way more polished.

 


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MARS_REVENANT #14 Posted 22 February 2017 - 06:02 AM

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Progress for tonight:

 

 

 

ujkii28.jpg


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hawkeyededic #15 Posted 22 February 2017 - 01:19 PM

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sometimes how much a model shines depends on the model itself, I'm not sure but I suspect it has to do with what color the actual model is underneath the textures.I've not really played with the spc files so can't really help you there.

 

Your off to a great start with a very well chosen subject, the Javelin is close enough to the Arrow to lend itself nicely to the skin.



 

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MARS_REVENANT #16 Posted 22 February 2017 - 06:24 PM

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View Posthawkeyededic, on 22 February 2017 - 08:19 AM, said:

sometimes how much a model shines depends on the model itself, I'm not sure but I suspect it has to do with what color the actual model is underneath the textures.I've not really played with the spc files so can't really help you there.

 

Your off to a great start with a very well chosen subject, the Javelin is close enough to the Arrow to lend itself nicely to the skin.

 

Thanks for the tips and the walkthroughs, I'll test it out on the i-16 and see if the bare metal is shinier on that.  My plan was to create a bare metal strip on the leading edge of the Javelin, and mimic the jog in the wing of the Arrow.  Do you hang out on any Teamspeaks?

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hawkeyededic #17 Posted 22 February 2017 - 06:36 PM

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View PostMARS_REVENANT, on 22 February 2017 - 12:24 PM, said:

 

Thanks for the tips and the walkthroughs, I'll test it out on the i-16 and see if the bare metal is shinier on that.  My plan was to create a bare metal strip on the leading edge of the Javelin, and mimic the jog in the wing of the Arrow.  Do you hang out on any Teamspeaks?

 

A bare metal strip wouild look cool, if I was you I would try it anyway, never know how it might turn out, sometimes a brushed look is good too.

 

I don't hang out in any TS channels, but I do have Skype up most (read that as all) the time, so if you use Skype send me a PM and I'll get you my info.



 

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MARS_REVENANT #18 Posted 23 February 2017 - 02:07 AM

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obamaphone helped me on it.  basically erased everything in hangar.dds and everything in SPM.dds (like grey white checkerboard, erase)  This is the result:


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MARS_REVENANT #19 Posted 23 February 2017 - 02:39 AM

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I had some success with Adobe Illustrator.  It cant open DDS directly, but I can export the file into a PDF format using vector graphics.  Then I can import the PDF into Photoshop and convert to DDS.  Seems like a bit of work, but for things like line work and getting thing to line up I think would be a lot easier.  Rather than repaint a line, you can just grab and drag the end, or add a vertex or change it to a curve... It has a lot of potential I think.  Here is some scribbles I did just to see if the export/import works.

 


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GouIdy #20 Posted 23 February 2017 - 03:31 AM

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View PostMARS_REVENANT, on 22 February 2017 - 09:39 PM, said:

I had some success with Adobe Illustrator.  It cant open DDS directly, but I can export the file into a PDF format using vector graphics.  Then I can import the PDF into Photoshop and convert to DDS.  Seems like a bit of work, but for things like line work and getting thing to line up I think would be a lot easier.  Rather than repaint a line, you can just grab and drag the end, or add a vertex or change it to a curve... It has a lot of potential I think.  Here is some scribbles I did just to see if the export/import works.

 

 

 

Sweet! Now that you got it figured out & all the right tools you will be able to finally repair that #4 skin you've been working on so hard.




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